
Sockkniting has become all the rage.....I am a fan and thank you Alison for prompting me to write about the trial and tribulations of knitting socks.
The human body is perfectly balanced and if you have a head for maths you will not fail to see how easy sock construction can be.
To start with you need some measurements......not standard ones but your own. Length of foot, width of foot at the bridge of the foot and height from bottom of foot to achilles heel ( the bony part usually about 1 to 2 inches above the bottom of the foot).
Importantly, you now need to choose a yarn and knit a gauge swatch in the stitch of your choice.
To find out how many stitches to cast on in the round, you multiply the gauge ( stitches per inch) by the measurement of the width of your foot and voila that should give you an indication of how many stitches for your yarn. In my case, 64 stitches.
Cast on 64 stitches in the round and knit a rib ( I choose knit 1 through the back of the loop and then purl one) as a good elasticated ribbing. ( When I was taught how to knit socks it was on 3 needles, 1 for the front of the sock and 2 for the back. This would give you 32 on needle 1, 16 on needle 2 and 16 on needle 3). After ribbing continue in stocking stitch or patterned stitch until you reach between 5 and 7 inches ( that depends on the sizes of your foot ( I do equal length) or your preference ( long or short socks).
At that point you will need to do some jiggling about. Needle 1 now needs to be devided into 2 by putting 16 stitches on each needle ( for comfort). Needle 2 and 3 become the back where you will start making the heel on 1 needle.
The way I create a strong heel is to knit 1, slip 1 as if to purl on row 1 to the end then purl row 2. Do this for 16 ridges or desired height as measured from bottom of heel to achilles point.
More maths I am afraid to say but beautifully balanced nevertheless :
Knit 16, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the stitch over knit one and turn, slip first stitch, purl 5 then purl 2 together purl 1 and turn. Now you knit to the last stitch( 6?) , k1, slip 1, pass the stitch over, knit 1 turn etc until all stithes have been used up.
Ending on a knit row, you will now pick up stitches on the edges of the heel gusset which will bring you to need 1 again( Ipick up a stitch in between so as not to make a hole), knit needle 1 and 2 al the way on 1 needle, then pick up stitches other side of heel and knit until you meet the centre stitch of the back of the heel. ( You will end up with stitches on 3 needles - the front, and 2 needles either side of central back stitch).
Starting from the centre heel stitch, you knit to the last 3 stitches, knit two together, knit 1, then knit all of stitches on needle 1 ( front) and needle 3, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the stitch over. Second row is all knit. Repeat these 2 rows until you have again 16 stitches on needle 2 and 3 and you will have 32 on needle 1.
Now knit until the length of the sock is 2 inches less than measurements of length of foot.
On needle 1 knit 1, slip 1, pass the stitch over, knit to last 3 stitches , knit 2 together, knit 1, needle 2 : knit1, slip 1, pass the stitch over knit to end, needle 3, knit to last 3 stitches, knit two together, knit 1. Second row knit. Repeat until you have 16 stitches on needle 1 and 8 on needle 2 and 3 ( perfectly 50%).
Then use kitchener stitch to sew them together and voila a perfect fit hopefully.
There is no mystery just a bit of awkwardness in knitting socks, but I find it enjoyable.
Once you have mastered the heel and decreases you can experiment with patterns on the front that repeat over the amount of stitches you are using. Endless combinations of feet, yarn and pattern.
Hope thats as clear as mud now!
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